Hanoi - Revisited

The Railway Hanoi

The Railway Hanoi

We stayed in the La Siesta Spa Hotel in the heart of the Old Quarter. I love the Old Quarter, the French Quarter and around Hoan Kiem Lake.  I think I could spends days or weeks just wandering around the streets taking it all in and taking photos.

It has a great buzz, it’s chaotic, it’s friendly, it’s mad and it’s fun. You need your wits about you to walk the streets, with bikes, cars and scooters coming at you from every angle.

I first came to Vietnam about 7 years ago while volunteering with the Irish Haemophilia Society and I can see some changes, more cars and better infrastructure and some more prosperity. But the people I met on that first trip are still as friendly and helpful as ever. They are very kind and giving of their time and friendship to invite us out to lunch and dinner and even into their homes. It is quite touching to meet people who are so friendly and caring, they certainly made our trip to Hanoi so enjoyable.

Highlights from Hanoi:

  • Meeting with old friends

  • Visiting the Long Bien railway bridge and the railway tracks

  • Minh Binh Jazz Club

  • Sharon loved her massage.

  • Our lovely hotel La Siesta Ma Mai street

  • Wandering the streets of the Old & French Quarters and taking it all in.

Well bye for now Hanoi and bye Vietnam, perhaps some day we will make it back again.

And now some photos.

Hello Hoi An & Hue

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The next part of our journey takes us to Hoi An for 4 days and then Hue for 2.

The last time we were in Hoi An, November 2017, we got the tail end of the Damrey Typhoon which did a fair bit of damage in its track. We saw the floods in the Ancient Town and surrounding areas and you can read more here

From Saigon we fly to Da Nang a city with over 1 million inhabitants. It is a coastal city with beautiful natural sandy beaches. You can see huge investment from China and South Korea to build 5 star resorts along the beaches and in a few years you can perhaps imagine it being like Miami. A drive through the city and you can see Skyscrapers, fancy bridges and wide streets being built, further signs of how well Vietnam is coming along. Hoi An is about a 45 minute drive from Da Nang.

Old Town Hoi An is an ancient trading port dating from the 15th to the 19th centuries. The historic district is maintained a few streets back from the riverside and undoubtedly the nighttime illumination of the streets by its colourful lanterns gives it its great charm. At night boats lit up with lanterns sail up and down with tourists and paper lanterns are lowered into the river to give a beautiful perspective.

It is of course heavily commercialised with tailor shops (a particular attraction, there must be about a hundred around the town), coffee shops, restaurants and souvenir shops a plenty, and of course street vendors trying to sell you fruit, or hand made cards, or just posing for photographs for a small fee!

Nonetheless it is a very pleasant experience to wander up and down the streets, visiting some of the historical landmarks like the Japanese Bridge or a Pagoda or an historic house, or just perusing the shops, eating or getting a coffee.

My favourite experiences this trip were:

  • Just strolling around the Ancient Town, day & night, taking photos and absorbing it all in.

  • Dining in the Secret Garden Restaurant, a fantastic restaurant hidden in the side streets. Lovely setting and exquisite food!

  • Eating in Miss Lien Thao’s tiny street restaurant where we met Annabelle and Mike from London. Completely at the other spectrum of dining, where she had 3 long tables and cooked for 30 people on a tiny cooking stove with two rings! But great food.

  • Visiting the Precious Heritage Art Gallery Museum.

This museum was a great find, it featured the photography of Rehahn a French portrait photographer who visited Vietnam and who over a number of years from 2011 began taking portraits of Vietnamese old and young. It developed into a project where he drove on his motorcycle around the extremities of Vietnam to photograph all or most of the 50+ different ethnic races that make up Vietnam. He also collected samples of their native clothing, which are now very rare. Many of these costumes now appear in his Museum with portraits of the owners and a short description of the person, their regions and details on how the clothes are made and dyed. It is a fascinating gallery/museum and his photography is stunning and you can see how he makes a connection with person. Well worth a view:

https://www.rehahnphotographer.com/

He also has a very good mobile app you can use to get the experience and story without having to come to Hoi An.

We visited Hue for two days and stayed in a lovely resort called the Pilgrimage Village. Initially we intended to just chill out here for Sharon’s birthday but then headed into the Imperial City where we spent a very hot morning, but it was well worth the visit.

Hue of course played a very important part of the American/Vietnam war, where many parts of the Imperial City were destroyed, but now many have been restored.

Photos Hoi An

Photos from Hue Imperial Citadel

Bye Bye Saigon

Sharon In Bitexco building HCMC

Sharon In Bitexco building HCMC

Vietnam is an up and coming economy from, at one point, one of the poorest regions of Southeast Asia, to number 47 in the world pushing it up into the middle income range of nations.

No where is this more evident than the powerhouse that is Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon. Signs of growing prosperity abound, new skyscrapers, we visited the impressive Skydeck at the Bitexco Building, high end boutiques, Versace, Christian Dior, Burberry, Channel, Cartier, Samsung has a big presence, the new Metro being built in a joint venture with Japan.  Large hotels with rooftop bars and swimming pools, especially where we stayed in District 1, where a beer can cost 98,000 VD (about €3.74) but locals can get the same beers for 13,000VD in residential areas. Simple things like being able to pay for food & drink with debit and credit cards. There are many more cars here than say Hanoi, and the infrastructure is advancing quicker.

However, from a tourist perspective Saigon doesn’t hold the same charm as, say, Hoi An or the Old Quarter in Hanoi. That’s not to say we didn’t enjoy our visit.  The War Remnants Museum is a powerful if somewhat harrowing experience showing the inhumanity of man to his fellow man. There is some beautiful colonial architecture like the beautiful Opera House, Notre Dame Cathedral and The Central Post Office.  There are some great markets to browse around.  Plenty of good restaurants and bars to frequent!  Further out you can visit the Mekong Delta for a different experience and the Cu Chi tunnels are famous, there are a few islands off the mainland popular as seaside resorts as well.

Happily we met with a young Irish ex-pat who has lived for the last two years in Saigon and it was great to get a his perspective on Saigon. He agreed that from a touristic point of view Saigon doesn’t hold the same charms as other places further north but as a place to live it can’t be beaten. The people are very friendly, it has a constant warm year round temperature whereas further north there are clearer seasons where it can get quite cold and houses, in his view, aren’t built to deal with the cold. He can live with the rainy season as long as he doesn’t have to put up with the cold. He loves the food, it’s much easier to live a healthier life style.  The cost of living is very low.  There is a buzz about the place and economically the place is doing well, he believes there are more venture capitalists and people investing in Vietnam than any other places in Southeast Asia.  What does he miss? Well apart from family, is live music in pubs and bars like back home in Dublin.  He certainly intends to spend another couple of years here before deciding where to next.

We thoroughly enjoyed our short trip to Ho Chi Minh City, apparently we picked the ideal time of year, although the temperature was in the low to mid thirties it was not humid and it was very bearable. This is the cool season !!😉 One highlight was a qualifying match for the U23 soccer team against Brunei. They had installed about 10 huge TV screens along Hue Walking Street and it was great to see the crowds out to watch the match. We also had a few lovely meals, Vietnamese food is special and I think it’s great!

Now off to Hoi An, the last time we were there, November 2017 we were met with the afters of a huge Cyclone/Storm that flooded many businesses/bars/ships/restaurants along the rivers edge and a few streets back. Flooding like this apparently is quite frequent and it is amazing to see how quickly they recover. Hopefully better weather this time!

To finish a few photos from Saigon.

 

Vietnam Day 3

Up early this morning at 6am, Prof Tri and one of the hospital administrators Ms Anh collected us at 6.15 and we headed out for breakfast. Prof Tri was very keen we try the traditional Vietnamese breakfast of Pho, so we headed to a local Pho eatery that has been there for 3 generations. Pho is a soup or broth with rice noodles, beef and two raw eggs broken into it, and it was really nice and a great way to set oneself up for the day. It was something I was keen to try but wasn't sure where to get it. I was really pleased to have tried Pho and would recommend it.

The above shows the owner cooking breakfast and Prof Tri and Brian enjoying the Pho.

Next we headed off for coffee and naturally in Hanoi there is a street for coffee bars.

Our very hospitable hosts took us out for a very enjoyable day, we headed for Ninh Binh (pronounced Ning Bing) province which was a drive of over two hours. We had a lovely drive through the country side and arrived first at Chua Bai Dinh a fairly modern complex containing a large number of temples.

Fortunately we arrived early at about 9am and beat the crowds. It was a fascinating morning plenty of walking and loads of steps. Here are some of the photos I took.

A really interesting morning and although it was hot at times and a lot of walking the weather was just perfect.

Next we headed off for lunch. Vietnamese food is great, very fresh, simply prepared and served with delicious dipping sauces that enhance the food and the experience. Prof Tri was insistant that the food be as fresh as possible and sent Ms Anh into the first restaurant to check and it was given the thumbs up. We were early so the first and only ones there. The food was extremely fresh so fresh in fact, you will see in one the following images where they had just killed the chicken for our meal. The staff were very friendly and kindly invited me in to take some photos.

The food started with a sort of salad of fresh leaves of mint (two different types I think) and a third leaf that looked like a bay leaf but wasn't, banana cut in slices in the skin and a sour tasting star shaped vegetable which was gorgeous. Lovely dipping sauces were also provided, a peanut sauce, a sort of nam pla with chillis, and a brown sugar with lime juice. Next came two pork and two (very fresh) chicken dishes and a soup made with spinach. Just so much food and so good.

After lunch we were taken to Trang An in the Ninh Binh region. Trang An is a waterway with caves or grottoes that run through and between vast limestone cliffs that rise out of the waters and it is often compared to Halong Bay. We hired a boat that took us through the waterways and through the caves in a trip that took over two hours. We were very fortunate that it was not high season as there was very few people around. In high season there can be over a thousand boats on the water. The woman that rowed our boat was a slight person and as I said it took her over two hours to take us around and it didn't appear to take anything out of her. It was truly a memorable experience and gave a feel for what the famous Halong Bay must be like.

Time to head back to Hanoi and we met Hanoi evening rush hour. I've never seen anything like it, cars, bikes and scooters coming from all sides and angles. For dinner we were brought to a special restaurant that served mainly mushrooms in loads of different guises and varieties and as always everything was great. It is typical for Vietnamese food to be cooked at the table. A burner is put in the middle of the table and a broth already boilng is placed on the burner. Next the raw ingredients are added to the broth, in this case a variety or mushrooms and small black skinned chickens no bigger that same a Robin, and of course the head is still looking at you.,5 of these one for each of us. This cooks for 10 mins until fully cooked. The waitress serves up and we avoid the chicken. This time there is a beautiful coconut based dipping sauces. But it doesn't stop there, next raw thin slices of beef are added (really yummy), then sliced salmon and finally fresh vegetables like spinach and spring onions. It was all finished off with a serving of ice cream (though not this time in the broth). The perfect end to a prefect day.

Tomorrow it's work.

Vietnam - Days 10-12, Summary

The last few days have been about relaxing and getting home. Sunday in Vung Tau (admittedly forgettable), back to HCM city Monday to walk around city and night market and finally 24 hours getting home via Bangkok and Amsterdam. What are my impressions? Well much of the time was spent at meetings though we did get to sample some of the country. But based on my limited experience Hanoi and the north appears more traditional Vietnamese whereas HCM City in the south is more cosmopolitan and western as evidenced by the newer, bigger city and shops like Gucci, Armani, Burberry, Channel etc, etc. Though we did see a Gucci store in Hanoi as well but not on the same scale. Though I am sure that not many locals purchased here, the wealthy international visitor I expect makes up the majority of the customers. As I understand it even well-educated professionals may earn only $200 a month and we saw plenty of people living on much else, and inflation is rampant now.

I love Hanoi and some of the local areas we saw and were taken to, it whetted my appetite for more. It would be nice to visit and travel widely with other photographers to get some great images of the very varied landscape and seascapes as well as the beautiful people. The people themselves are, friendly, welcoming, quiet and sometimes shy. There are many different ethnicities with varying traditions which would be great to explore and to get to know more about. In the time available we really didn't even scratch the surface.

The food is great, a preponderance of fish and seafood, but it all seems so fresh, plainly cooked and embellished with lovely sauces, and the use of vegetables is great. Though we also sampled some of the very unusually: uterus, pigs intestine, testicle, liver and a desert which contained frogs stomach, fortunately we avoided snake! Also unfortunately they did not inherit good desserts from their French invaders but they have an abundance of fantastic fruit to make up for this.

For those of a more cultural bent, than myself, there are also plenty of museums and places that commemorate the struggle against their previous invaders, the USA and the French.

What, though, of their Haemophilia care? Well there are some very good points. Firstly there are a number of Haemophilia centres around the country, this is excellent as I have no doubt that without these centres there would be many more injuries and indeed deaths. General hospitals just don't treat as well, they don't have the expertise or the treatment and the delay or denial of treatment, or inappropriate treatment can lead to permanent injury or death. Even in Ireland, where we have good comprehensive care in centres there is a concern about being treated in none centres without this expertise, steps are being taken to try improve on this. The problem here in Vietnam though is that many patients live a long way from the centres and most do not have a decent mode of transport except perhaps on the back of a motorbike which isn't exactly the best mode of transport with a bleed or injury! This delay causes further problems.

At these centres there are very good and dedicated staff who look after their patients as well as they can, but the problem is two-fold. The lack of access to sufficient and appropriate factor replacement treatment. As a poor country it is difficult to access the most modern factor replacement concentrates so less efficient plasma derived products are used. And although these are made locally to high standards with proper screening for viruses and contaminants, sufficient treatment cannot be made to allow patients treat themselves at home when they get injured, which, would revolutionise the standard of care. Secondly, people with haemophilia here must pay a contribution towards their treatment, 20%, which for the vast majority here is a great burden and has led to great hardship. In circumstances of poverty this contribution is reduced to 5% and in these cases the treatment manufacturers will pay the final 5%, but this really only encourages poverty.

The outcome is that patients lose out on their education, can't get jobs and find it difficult to support themselves. Seeing this is very humbling and makes me appreciate the very good level of care we get. But also it reminds me of how it used to be in Ireland many decades ago. It has been a long road, a very hard-fought road, to get us where we are and this road has been paved with many instances of hardship, through lack of treatment which lead to: deformity and disablement, poor education, lack of job prospects, families ashamed of their haemophilia, poor quality of life, and indeed lives cut tragically short through injury. In the last 3 decades poor safety measures in the manufacturing of the treatment has had its own tragedy through contamination with HIV, AIDS and Hep. C, where the lives of many friends and families have been devastated. So my visit here reminds me we should not be complacent about what we have achieved, irrespective of our economy. We need to retain and continue to improve our level of care so that we should not fall back into the abyss of inadequate treatment, and we must insist on the highest level of care, in this way people with haemophilia and bleeding disorders can have full and fulfilling lives, and can contribute to society rather than be a burden on it.

So finally a country I would live to return to and explore more fully.

Vietnam - Day 9 Vung Tau

A lie on at last, up at 8.30, breakfast, store our main luggage at the hotel, let's hope it's still there on Monday when we return and off the catch the hydrofoil to Vung Tau. Our boat leaves at 11.30 and will take 1.5 hours. Vung Tau is a beach resort outside HCM that the Vietnamese visit at weekends, apparently it's famous as the place that Gary Glitter frequented!!!!!! Anyway we check in, it's not Ritz but will do fine and relaxing and taking in the sun is the order of the day.

Vietnam - Day 8 Saigon

The morning started with a very formal inauguration of the HCM City club, which essentially is a branch of the Vietnamese Haemophilia Society. There are over 50 people attending, with high-powered doctors there and we are invited to the top table as guests. There is a TV camera for local news reporting. The opening ceremony lasts two hours the most touching contribution being from a fairly disabled man with haemophilia who is obviously overcome with emotion at the set up of this club, and what he hopes may improve overall treatment. After it finishes it gives us an opportunity to mix and talk to the haemophiliacs and parents attending. They are extremely friendly and talk freely and ask us about our services and the level of treatment we receive. In fact it's a little humbling as I soon realise that in perhaps two or three treatments I would have used up an entire years treatment for one of these young men. They can only live in hope, and repeatedly I am told our position is a dream for them.

After another fine lunch with the doctors we have a couple of workshops to discuss the way to organise a society and how to get and train volunteers.

That finishes our work for the day so we have 3 days left to enjoy ourselves.

Vietnam - Day 7, Saigon

We set off at 6.45am for our flight to Ho Chi Minh City, formerly Saigon. Vietnam is a long country it being some 1900 km between these two cities and it takes 2 hours by plane. The first impressions of HCM is a slightly more modern city to Hanoi with wider streets though the traffic is still fairly hectic.

In the afternoon we are to visit the blood bank and three hospitals that treat haemophilia. It's when you visit hospitals like these that you realise how lucky we are, there are many problems with our health service, but here things are much worse. The doctors and nurses are excellent but they cannot work miracles with the resources they have. We see crowded hospitals with no privacy and in many cases patients are sharing beds. The worse part of this is that haemophilia is readily treatable, and patients can treat themselves at home with modern treatment. When this is done there are less strains on the medical system, with patients being more healthy and requiring less hospitalisation. Instead here there is limited and poorer quality treatment which means these young men are severely disabled, which means they cannot get full education and hence appropriate jobs. Also here the patients must pay a contribution towards their treatment (20%) except if they are destitute. Salaries are poor here so that one treatment can cost as much as a months salary. So it is not unknown to sell their possessions and homes to pay for treatment. Because these children and men are not getting sufficient treatment most are disabled with deformed joins and in many cases they have lost limbs. It is a very humbling experience.

Tomorrow we are to return for the formal set up of a branch of the Vietnamese Haemophilia Society in HCM city and for workshops.

Again we are treated to a very nice seafood meal in a fine restaurant by the health care professionals in HCM city, our hosts are extremely hospitable and friendly and it is a very enjoyable evening.

Vietnam - Day 6

We were picked up this morning at 6am, we were being brought out for a days sight-seeing and to see a family with a Haemophilic boy. The province of Hoa Binh is a good 2 hour journey though we have to stop off at the hospital first to pick up all those going on the trip. We have Dr Mai and some of her team including another doctor, a few nurses, one of the nurses daughters who acts as a volunteer, a young man with haemophilia and Ms Hang who is an administrator at the hospital in the centre. On the road in a bus for a couple of hours, and it's interesting to see the country side and the small villages along the way. Where we are going isn't in fact too far away, less than a hundred kilometres, but the roads are not great, we come across slow moving vehicles, and the odd small herd of cattle. It appears that it takes forever to drive any sort of distance.

About 9 am we make it to the hydroelectric power station that produces about 20% of the country's electricity. It was built with the expertise of Russian engineers and some 37000 Vietnamese workers. It took 15 years and some 167 lost their lives in its construction. It was built in a mountain side to prevent its distraction during a war. It was completed in 1982.

We were then taken for a long boat ride on the lake, perhaps to make up for the fact we didn't get to Holong Bay. We are taken to a small temple on a tiny island in the lake.  Here Dr Mai buys some freshly barbecued fish which we eat on the boat. These are lovely people and even with a bit of a language barrier we had a great laugh and they are so hospitable.

Sorry Michael but I have to say we had another great lunch. We were taken to an excellent restaurant. The food is so fresh and great vegetables and dipping sauces.

Next we are brought to a very entertaining and ethnic dance show. We shared some local wine from a large pot using long bamboo straws.

We are then welcomed into the house of a local boy with haemophilia, our whole crew of 12 of us, are invited in to sit at two long tables they have prepared with food. As well as his parents there is his grandmother, aunts, local doctor, 3 of his school teachers and he also had a friend there with haemophilia. We were made most welcome with, food, drink, flowers, speeches and a gift each. They are truly wonderful people and hopeful that our twinning programme can produce dividends through improved overall health care for their boys and all boys with haemophilia.

It's just gone 5pm and time to set off. We've been invited to an after wedding party of one of the nurses in the Haemophilia Centre. As can be expected weddings are slightly different here, the ceremony is actually tomorrow and tonight we were invited to the brides party in her house (sort of hens party) meanwhile hubby to be is having a party in his home. The wedding album is already produced they took the photos in all the wedding garb about 2 months ago. The family treat us like royalty we are taken into the house and given the bet chairs and introduced to all the important members of the family. Then of course there's even more food. Overall a fantastic day and they have looked after us very well. Here are some photos from my iPhone today on the lake.

Vietnam - Day 5

Michael asked me if I travelled all this way just for the food, so just for today I won't mention how good the food is, oops too late I've done it again! The hospital is a fine modern building but still sometimes there are more patients than beds and at times there may be two to a bed. I also forgot to mention yesterday that the hospital deals with both adults and children. And it was just brilliant to see how happy the kids were when they received the simple toys and gifts we brought for them, one little lad jumped and ran around the corridor for joy. I have a feeling Fiona would happily steal one away, they are such wonderful little boys.

Seeing and listening to these young men and the parents brought me back to the 60-70s in Ireland before there was effective treatment. Here they are stuck into a vicious circle. There is not sufficient treatment so the boys miss a lot of school, they are becoming disabled with impaired limbs, their education suffers greatly, so they cannot get proper jobs due to their poor education and their disability, so they have a poor quality of life that is very frustrating for them. The funny thing is that they have a lovely modern hospital, all be it with too few beds at times, great doctors, and just as important good nurses, but they don't have enough treatment to allow these young men live a full, healthy, and good quality life. They are looking to the I.H.S. to help them organise an efficient and effective Society that will help them over time to deliver the comprehensive treatment they deserve.

Tomorrow we visit one of the regions about 100km from Hanoi where we will meet some families and see some of the sights. We have also been invited to part of a traditional Vietnamese wedding, so early to bed tonight!